When I work with Sylvester and saw on the wrist the PAM00389 I have to say that I fell in love, with Dwayne Johnson’s on his wrist and felt the same, but I had too many Luminor 1950 in 47mm and the dial was different because of the ceramic black bezel,I had no opportunity to acquire it.
Then came the “evolution” of that watch with the PAM01389 and I thought WTF? just a blue hand? in the second hand? but then I discovered something else, and something different; new movement. I decided to make the purchase. It has not disappointed the 01389 are one good option.
So at least the 01389 is an “evolution” does not go unnoticed. Really handsome watch.
Many of the characteristics in the 00389 repeat in the 01389, which could largely be called an update to an existing reference, rather than an entirely new one. Like the original, the 1389 is built with a titanium case and fitted with an iron dial, and a soft iron Faraday cage encasing its movement beneath, rendering it impervious to the many modern dangers to mechanical watches.
Otherwise, little else has changed since 2014. The applied hourly indices are now a razor’s edge thicker, the running small seconds hand at 9:00 is now a cheerful shade of blue, and the luminous application to the hands and indices is now two-tone – the minute hand glows blue to match the bezel pip, while all other markings glow green.
Most notably though, the new 1389 has been updated with Panerai’s newest automatic caliber: the P.9010, which carries the same double-barreled, 3-day power reserve as its in-house manufactured predecessor (the P.9000), but now adds an independently adjustable hour hand – a feature that’s becoming increasingly common on many modern Panerai models, and a boon for frequent fliers.
Caliber P.9010 is the successor to the P.9000 movement, featuring a slightly slimmer design and a balance bridge secured on two sides.
The automatic P.9010 calibre, entirely developed and created in the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel, has central hour and minute hands, the small seconds dial at 9 o’clock and the date at 3 o’clock. The energy necessary to accumulate a power reserve of three days – the basic standard for Panerai in-house movements – is stored in two spring barrels whose springs are wound by an oscillating weight operating in both directions. Consisting of 200 components including 31 jewels, the calibre has a diameter of 13¾ lignes and it is 6 mm thick. The balance, fixed by a bridge with twin supports, oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). It is associated with the device which stops it as soon as the winding crown is pulled out, enabling the watch to be perfectly synchronised with a reference signal. In the P.9010 calibre the hours can be conveniently adjusted without interfering with the movement of the minute hand, thanks to the device which directly moves only the relative hand in jumps of one hour forward or backwards. This function is very useful when changing time zones or moving between summer time and winter time, and conveniently the adjustment of the hour hand is automatically connected to the date indicator.
That said, if you love the undeniably cool aesthetic of the 1389, there’s always the more traditionally-sized 42mm PAM682, but you miss out on the anti-magnetic capabilities and ceramic bezel, along with the ability for the dial to double as a serving plate in a pinch. Kidding aside, it’s clear that the rest of the industry has been responding to a return to smaller sizes – 43mm seems to be the new 42, down from the 45 and 47mm watches that once dominated Panerai’s modern collection. That’s why another 47mm watch in 2017 actually feels a little dated right out of the gate – despite its undeniably cool, and classic aesthetic. Trends-be-damned though, many die-hard Paneristi still wouldn’t have it any other way – which is likely why the brand continues to fly the flag as one of the last holdouts of this decade’s big watch trend.
The watch comes from Panerai store with a black rubber strap 26/22.0 Standard, but for the session I preferred to use a leather strap from Swordstraps with blue trim that gives a more sporty and casual, without subtracting elegance.
Fonts: Zach Pina/ablogtowatch.com/Panerai/Erwan Grey/Swordstraps